Manufacture of shoes



A. F. PYM

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Dec. FIG, 1935.,

Filed Jan. 15, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet l m, 1935. A. F. PYM

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 15, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 WW & Wm

Deco W, 1935. A. F. PYM

' MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 15, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 //v VENTURMM; P Ha -7 9M Patented Dec. 10, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEMANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application January 15, 1935, Serial No. 1,927

16 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and moreparticularly to the lasting of uppers over insoles and to otheroperations performed after the lasting but before the outsoles areapplied on the bottoms of the shoes. In some aspects the inventionrelates especially to the manner of temporarily fastening and holdinguppers in lasted position in lasting, with an ad 10 hesive, shoes of atype in which the marginal portion of the upper between the insole and.the outsole lies throughout its width in generally parallel relation tothe bottom of the last on which the shoe is made, the insole having onits bottom face no upper-attaching shoulder or projection extendingheightwise of the last; and the invention is herein illustrated byreference to operations performed at the toe end of a shoe of such atype, although it is to be understood that it is not limited tooperations at the toe ends of shoes.

In lasting the toes of shoes of the above-mentioned type there issometimes used, for securing the uppers in lasted position, an adhesivewhich is comparatively slow in setting or hardening, so that the uppersneed to be held in lasted position for a substantial length of time bysome extraneous means. Such an adhesive-for example, pyroxylin cementmaybe applied to the shoe materials before or during the lasting operation,or the adhesive may be incorporated in a box toe stiffener included inthe upper materials. For holding the upper under such conditions it hasbeen a frequent practice to apply and fasten to the toe end of the shoean upper-holding device which is portable with the shoe. The presentinvention provides a novel method whereby an upper may be thustemporarily fastened in a convenient and expeditious manner and by theuse of holding means of a comparatively inexpensive character, andwhereby also the removal of surplus upper materials over the end of theinsole, which is frequently desirable after the lasting operation inorder that the outsole when applied may lie close to the insole, isgreatly facilitated. For the purpose in view, as herein illustrated, themarginal portion of the toe end of the upper is lasted over the insoleparallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardlyfrom the edge of the insole and the remainder thereof is positioned inupstanding relation to the shoe bottom, as illustrated substantiallyperpendicular to the outer or bottom face of the insole, after which anupper-holding binder is applied to the upstanding portion of the upperand is fastened to the shoe. Preferably, as shown, such a bindercomprises a wire of the kind commonly used to hold the toe ends of theuppers of welt shoes against a lip or rib on the insole, the binderbeing anchored at its ends to tacks driven into the shoe bottom. Ifdesired, although not necessarily, other tacks or equivalent fasteningsmay be driven in such manner as to clamp other portions of the binderdown upon the shoe bottom. To facilitate the positioning of a portion ofthe overlasted margin of the upper thus in upstanding relation to the 10shoe bottom there is used, as further herein illustrated, an abutmentadjacent to the insole against which this portion of the upper ispressed by the wipers of a lasting machine. preparatory to theapplication of the binder to the shoe. 1 Such an abutment may be apermanent part of the lasting machine, and accordingly after removal ofthe shoe from the machine, the binder positioned against the upstandingor upturned portion' of the upper is relied upon to hold the 20 upper inlasted position. Alternatively, as further herein illustrated, theabutment may be attached to the shoe and be portable with the shoe tocooperate with the binder in holding the upper, although it iscontemplated that under most conditions the binder alone will besufficient to hold the upper effectively, thus contributing to economyin lasting equipment.

It will be understood that after the adhesive has sufficiently hardenedor set, the binder and the tacks or other fastenings which hold it willbe removed from the shoe, and if an abutment portable with the shoe isused this also will be removed. The surplus margin of the uppermaterials may then be trimmed off, for example by use of a hand knife,this operation being greatly facilitated by reason of the fact that theportion to be removed is positioned in upstanding relation to the shoebottom at a pronounced angle to that portion which is secured to theinsole by the adhesive.

In a further novel aspect the invention contributes to improved resultsin the use of filler pieces of sheet material at the toe ends of shoes.It will be evident that when the toe end of the upper is lasted with aportion of its margin upstanding'and the upstanding portion isthereafter trimmed off as above described, the space to be filled at thetoe end of the shoe inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper isdetermined precisely by the abutment against which the upstandingportion was lasted. Accordingly it is contemplated that filler pieceswill be provided which are cut to a pattern corresponding to theabutment used in lasting, and when such a filler the shoe after itsremoval fromthe machine with the binder attached; I

Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating adifierent way of fastening thebinder on the shoe;

Fig. 4 shows how the upstanding portion of the upper materials may beconveniently trimmed off by use of a hand knife after theremoval of thebinder from the shoe;

Fig. 5 shows a filler piece formed to fill the space inwardly of thetrimmed edge of the upper at the toe end of the shoe after the trimmingoperation;

Fig. 6 illustrates how the filler piece is applied to the shoe;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view illustrating, in the lasting of the toe endof a shoe, the alternative use of an abutment plate which is portablewith the shoe, the toe being lasted in a machine of a difierent-formfrom that shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view illustrating more clearly how the portableabutment plate is attached to the shoe and last; and

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the shoe after its removal from themachine, with the portable abutment plate and the bindery thereon.

The bed-lasting machine a portion of which is shown in Fig. 1 toillustrate the practice of the novel method is one of a well-known typechar-- acteristic features of which are disclosed in detail, forexample, in United States Letters Patent No.1,284,8'70, granted onNovember 12, 1918 upon an application of Matthias Brock, which may bereferred to for further information as to the construction of themachine. It will be understood that the last and shoe, mounted on a jackat the heel end, are supported at the toe end by a toe rest l6, and thatthe upper materials around the toe end of the last are wipedheightwiseof the last and inwardly over an insole on the bottom of thelast by toe-embracing wipers l2 which are raised and lowered by atreadle and are advanced and closed about the toe by a hand lever. Thereis also shown in Fig. 1 a toe band M for clamping the upper to the lastexteriorly of the shoe bottom, although such a toe band may be and isoften omitted. I

The drawings illustrate the practice of the method in the lasting of thetoe portion of a shoe which has already been lasted along its shank andball portions substantially as far forwardly as the toe-end portion, theupper being secured to the insole along the shank portion by staples sand along the ball portion by an adhesive. It is to be understood,however, that the utility of the invention is not dependent uponprevious treatment of the shoe in this particular manner nor, in fact,upon the previous lasting of the shoe rearwardly of the toe-end portion.As shown most clearly in Fig. 8, the insole of the type of shoeillustrated has on its bottom face no upper-attaching shoulder orprojection, extend- -holddown for the shoe.

ing heightwise of the last, against which the upper is lasted, theportion of the upper which engages the insole lying parallel to thebottom of the last to receive an outsole applied in direct contacttherewith at a later stage in the manufacture of the shoe.

In the practice of the method in the manner illustrated in Fig. 1 thereis utilized in the lasting machine an abutment plate 16 arranged toengage the bottom face of the toe end of the insole over the toe restIll and to serve, in part, as a This abutment plate has a shoulder iiiof a contour similar to the contour of the edge of the insole around theend and along the sides of the toe, but is of such size and may be sopositioned on the insole that the shoulder I8 is spaced from the edge ofthe insole a distance considerably less than the width of the lasting-margin of the upper, i. e., the marginal portion of the upper to belasted inwardly over the insole. As shown, although not necessarily, theshoulder 13 extends heightwise of the last in substantiallyperpendicular relation to the bottom of the last. Theplate I6 is mountedfor universal tipping movements on the ball-shaped lower end of a stud20 secured 'in the forward end of a holddown arm 22 which is mounted forlengthwise sliding movements in a' holder 25. The holder 24 is mountedand controlled substantially as disclosed in Letters Patent No;1,120,822, granted on December 15, 1914 upon an application of E. L.Keys. That is, the holder 24 is mounted to turn on a vertical rod 26 tocarry the plate I6 from an idle position to a position over the bottomof the shoe, and by means not herein shown, but fully disclosed in thelast-mentioned Letters Patent, the rod 26 may be forced downwardly by atreadle to press the plate i6 upon the insole and may be locked to holdthe plate in operative position. To facilitate the positioning of theplate IS in the proper relation to the edge of the insole the arm 22 maybe moved forwardly or rearwardly in the holder 26 by use of .a handlever 28 which is pivotally supported on the arm 22 and has apinand-slot connection with the holder.

It will be understood that after the shoe has been mounted in themachine the operator swings the plate l6 to a position over the toe endof the shoe by movement of the holder 24 about the rod 25 and by thetreadle connected to the rod lowers the plate into contact with theinsole, positioning the plate with its shoulder l8 as nearly equidistantfrom the edge of the insole at the end and both sides of the toe as canbe readily determined. The rod 26 is then looked, as above suggested, tohold the plate pressed upon the insole. The operator then proceeds tolast the toe end the shoe. i

In the toe-lasting operation it is customary to raise the toe wipers l2one or more times with the edges of the wipers in wiping engagement withthe upper around the toe so as to wipe the upper materials smoothly overthe last to the edge of the insole, after which the wipers are advancedand closed one or more times to wipe the marginallportion of the uppermaterials inwardly over the insole. In the lasting of toes with anadhesive it is sometimes the practice, after wiping the upper materialspreliminarily inward over the insole, to retract the wipers and to trimoh" the margin of all the layers of the materials except the outerlayer, including the lining and the toe box, approximately to the edgeof the insole, and this may be done in the practice of the presentmethod if desired, although it is contemplated that preferably all thedifferent layers will be lasted over the insole, which the presentinvention renders it entirely practicable to do by reason of itsprovision for accurate trimming of the margin of the upper materialsafter lasting and for accurate filling of the space over the insoleinwardly of the trimmed edges to provide an even seat for the outsole.The time when an adhesive is applied, or when an adhesive alreadyapplied or incorporated in one or more of the layers of upper materialsis activated, as by a solvent, may vary, although in operating inaccordance with the usual practice such an adhesive will be applied orwill be activated immediately before the marginal portion of the uppermaterials is wiped into final lasted position. In this overwipingoperation, the marginal portion of the upper (the term upper being usedas inclusive of whatever layers are lasted over the insole) ispositioned by the wipers in parallel relation to the bottom of the lastfor a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole,

i. e., as far inwardly as the shoulder [8 of the abutment plate it, andthe remainder of the marginal portion is positioned by the wipers inupstanding relation to the bottom of the shoe with its inner faceagainst the shoulder I8, the wipers forming a crease between thisupstanding portion and the portion which lies parallel to the lastbottom. As the wipers press the upper inwardly against the shoulder 18,the plate It, if

it has not been previously positioned equidistant from the edge of theinsole all around the toe, may be shifted slightly by pressure of thewipers against it, as permitted by the movability of the arm 22 and theholder 24.

After having thus wiped the upper over the insole and against the plateIS, the operator relaxes the pressure of the wipers on the uppersufficiently to permit binder wire to be drawn inwardly under the wipersagainst the upstanding portion of the upper in substantially the samemanner as binder wire is applied in lasting the toe of a welt shoe, oneend of the wire being anchored to the shoe by twisting it around ananchor tack t driven into the shoe bottom'at one side of the forepart.After pulling the binder wire against the upstanding portion of theupper around the toe, and it may be also pressing it more firmly againstthe upper by use of the wipers, the operator twists it about anotheranchor tack t driven in the opposite side of the shoe bottom and cuts itnear the tack, thus leaving a binder b fastened to the shoe. Eitherimmediately thereafter, or after lasting the heel end of the shoe ifthis end is to be lasted in the same machine, the operator retracts thewipers, releases the plate it and swings it to its idle position, andthen removes the shoe from the machine and sets it aside to await thedrying or hardening of the adhesive. By reference to Fig. 2 it will beseen that during this interval the binder 2) holds the upper in lastedposition, in so far as such action may be necessary in addition to theholding effect of the adhesive, by its engagement with the upstandingportion of the upper. The binder holds the upper effectively not onlybecause its ends are fastened to the anchor tacks, but also because ofthe fact that in so far as there is any tendency for the upper to pullout from under the binder there is a corresponding tendency to force thebinder closer to the insole by reason of the frictional action of theupstanding portion of the upper on the binder in a downward direction.If, however, the conditions render it desirable, in addition to theanchor tacks t other tacks t (Fig. 3) may be driven into the shoe bottomat the outer side of the binder in such manner as to clamp the binderdown upon the shoe bottom by their heads. This may be done,'for example,by use of a hand tacker after the toe wipers have been partiallyretracted to make room for the nozzle of the tacker. After the adhesivehas suficiently dried or hardened the binder and whatever tacks are usedwill be removed from the shoe. The upstanding margin of the upper maythen be conveniently trimmed off, for example by use of a hand knife 30(Fig. 4), substantially flush with the portion which is securedadhesively to the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last.

It will be evident that after the above-described trimming operation theedge of the portion of the upper which lies over the insole around thetoe presents a contour corresponding to the contour of the abutmentplate it against which the upper was lasted, so that the space over thetoe end of the insole inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper may becompletely filled by use of a filler piece of sheet material cut to apattern corresponding to the abutment plate. It is accordinglycontemplated that filler pieces cut to such a pattern will be provided,one such filler piece 32 being shown in Fig. 5, and such a filler piecewill be applied to the toe end of each shoe in the manner illustrated inFig. 6. This provides an even surface across the toe end of the shoebottom to receive the outsole. A plastic filler may be used whererequired along other portions of the shoe bottom.

If conditions should render it desirable to support the upstandingportion of the margin of the upper on its inner face after the shoeleaves the lasting machine, there may be used, in place of the abutmentplate iii, a plate 34 (Figs. 7, 8, and 9) which is readily detachablefrom the machine and is portable with the shoe. While such a portableplate may be attached or fastened to the last and shoe in various ways,it is herein shown as provided with three pins 36 arranged to projectthrough holes in the insole into sockets formed in metal bushings 38 inthe last, substantially as disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,674,060,granted on June 19, 1928 upon an application of mine. While abed-lasting machine of the type shown in Fig. 1 may be readily adaptedfor use with such a portable plate, Fig. 7 illustrates its use inconjunction with a toe-lasting machine of the character disclosed inLetters Patent No. 1,674,059, granted upon another application of mineon June 19, 1928. Such a machine has toe wipersdfl which are advancedand closed by a hand lever and are raised and lowered by a treadle, afixed holddown arm 42 arranged to project overv the bottom of the shoe,and a treadle-operated toe rest 44 arranged to cooperate with theholddown arm to clamp and hold the shoe. The plate 34, as shown, isfurther provided with upwardly extending pins d6 arranged to enter holesprovided in the holddown arm d2. It will thus be seen that since therelation of the plate 3'3 to the holddown arm is determined by the pins46 and since the relation of the last and shoe to the plate isdetermined by the pins 3%, the shoe is positioned and held in exactlythe right relation to the toe Wipers in accordance with the method ofthe above-mentioned Letters Patent No. 1,674,060. In the use of thisequipment the toe-lasting operation is performed in substantially thesame way as hereinbefore described with reference to Fig. 1, and afterthe binder b has been applied .and the binder b and its fastening tacksare removed from the shoe, and thereafter the upstanding portion of themargin of the upper'is trimmed off as hereinbefore described.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingthe marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over aninsole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulderor projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lastingoperation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outerface of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantialdistance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive betweenthe upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginalportion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, thereafter applying abinder to the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper inlasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, and after theadhesive has set removing the binder from the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingthe marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over aninsole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulderor projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lastingoperation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outerface of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantialdistance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive betweenthe upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginalportion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, maintaining the upperin lasted position by a wire binder applied about the upstanding portionof the upper and secured by fastenings penetrating the shoe bottom, andafter the adhesive has set removing the binder and said fastenings fromthe shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingthe marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over aninsole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulderor projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lastingoperation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outerface of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantialdistance inwardly from the edge of the insole and positioning theremainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoebottom, applying a wire binder about the upstanding portion of the upperfor holding the upper in lasted position and securing the binder byfastenings driven into the shoe bottom near the ends of the binder andby additional fastenings so applied as to clamp other portions of thebinder down upon the shoe bottom, and later removing the binder and saidfastenings from the shoe.

4. -That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inlasting the marginal portion of anendof an upper on a last inwardly overan insole the outer face of which is free'fro'many upper-attachingshoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in thelasting :operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper uponthe outer face of the insole parallel to '5 the bottom of the last for asubstantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole with'anadhesive between the upper and the insole and positioning the remainderof said marginal'portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, Iothereafter applying a binder to the upstanding portion of the upper forholding the upper in lasted position and fastening the binder to theshoe, setting the shoe aside with said binder fastened to it, and afterthe adhesive hasset rel5 moving the binder and trimming the upstandingportion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which liesparallel to the last bottom.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingthe marginal'por- 20' tion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly overan insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attachingshoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and inthe'lasting operation securing said marginal portion'of 25 the upperadhesively to the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the lastfor a substantial distance inwardly from the edg'e of the insole andpositioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstandingrelation to the shoe 30' 6. That improvement in methods of making '40shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of anupper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is freefrom any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise ofthe last and in the la'st- 4:5 ing operation positioning said marginalportion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to thebottom of the last and securing it adhesively to the insole for asubstantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole andpositioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstandingrelation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutmentadjacent to the insole, thereafter applying a binder to the outer faceof the upstanding portion of the 55 upper for holding the upper inlasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, and after theadhesive has set removing the binderl'from the shoe.

7. That improvement in methods of making 60 shoes which consists inlasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardlyover an insole the outer face of which isfre'e from any upper-attachingshoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the 65lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper uponthe outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for asubstantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole andpositioning the remainder of said 70 marginal portion in upstandingrelation tothe shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutmentadjacent to the insole, applying a binder to the outer face of theupstanding'portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted -posi-75 tion, thereafter separating the shoe and said abutment while leavingthe binder in upper-holding position, and later removing the binder fromthe shoe.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingth marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over aninsole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulderor projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lastingoperation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outerface of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantialdistance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive betweenthe upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginalportion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner faceagainst an abutment attached to the shoe adjacent to the insole,thereafter applying a binder to the outer face of the upstanding portionof the upper for holding the upper in lasted position, setting the shoeaside with the binder and abutment attached thereto, and after theadhesive has set removing the binder and abutment from the shoe.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inapplying to the bottom face of an insole on a last an abutment havingthereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole, lasting the shoeupper over the bottom face of the insole in parallel relation to thebottom of the last from the edge of the insoleas far inwardly as saidshoulder and pressing a portion of the upper against said shoulder inupstanding relation to the shoe bottom, applying an upper-holding binderto said upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite saidshoulder and fastening the binder to the shoe, thereafter separating theshoe and said abutment while leaving the binder in upper-holdingposition, and at a later stage in the manufacture of the shoe removingthe binder and trimming the upstanding portion of the uppersubstantially flush with the portion which lies parallel to the lastbottom.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inapplying to the bottom face of an end of an insole on a last an abutmenthaving thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around theend of the shoe bottom,

lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upper over the bottom face ofthe insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edgeof the insole as far inwardly as said shoulder and positioning theremainder of said marginal portion of the upper in upstanding relationto the shoe bottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying awire binder to the upstanding portion of the upper in a locationopposite said shoulder for holding the upper in lasted position andsecuring the binder to the shoe by fastenings penetrating the shoebottom, thereafter separating the shoe and said abutment whileleavingthe binder in upperholding position, and later removing the binder andits fastenings from the shoe.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inapplying to the bottom face of an end of an insole on a last an abutmenthaving thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around theend of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upperover the bottom face of the insole and in the lasting operation securingsaid marginal portion of the upper adhesively to the insole from theedge of the insole as far inwardly as said shoulder and positioning theremainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoebottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a Wire binderabout the upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite saidshoulder and securing the binder to the shoe by fastenings penetratingthe shoe bottom, separating the shoe and said abutment while leaving thebinder in upper-holding position, and after the adhesive has setremoving the binder and its fastenings from the shoe and trimming theupstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portionwhich is secured adhesively to the insole.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inattaching to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insoleon the last and having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of theinsole around the end of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portionof the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole in parallelrelation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insole as farinwardly as said shoulder and positioning the remainder of said marginalportion of the upper in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with itsinner face against said shoulder, applying a inder about the upstandingportion of the upper in a location opposite said shoulder for holdingthe upper in lasted position, fastening said binder to the shoe byanchor tacks near its ends and also by other tacks so driven as to clampit upon the upper by their heads, setting the shoe aside with saidbinder and abutment attached thereto, and later removing the binder andabutment from the shoe.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inattaching to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insoleon the last and having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of theinsole around the end of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portionof the shoe upper over the bottom face or" the insole and in the lastingoperation securing said marginal portion of the upper adhesively to theinsole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge ofthe insole as far inwardly .as said shoulder and positioning theremainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoebottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a binderabout the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper inlasted position and securing the binder by fastenings penetrating theshoe bottom, setting the shoe aside with the binder and abutmentattached thereto, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder andabutment from the shoe and trimming the upstanding portion of the uppersubstantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to theinsole.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inapplying to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insole onthe last and having projections extending through the insole intosockets in the last to position the abutment in predetermined relationto the last, positioning the shoe in a lasting machine in predeterminedrelation to lasting instrumentalities through said abutment, lasting themarginal portion of an end of the shoe upper over the bottom face of theinsole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge ofthe insole inwardly as far as said abutment and positioning theremainder of said marginal po t of the uppe in upstandin elat on to theshoe bottom with its inner face against abutment, applying a binderabout the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper inlasted position, removing the shoe from the lasting machine with saidbinder and abutment attached thereto, and later removing the binder andabutment from the shoe. V

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inlasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardlyover an insole the outer face of which is free from any upperrattachingshoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in thelasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper uponthe outer face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of thelast for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole andpositioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstandingrelation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutmentcurved similarly to the edge of the insole, thereafter trimming off theupstanding portion of the upper, providing a filler piece patterned tocorrespond to said abutment, and applying said filler piece to theinsole inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper.

1 Th t rov m nt n m t ds o makin shoes which consists in lastin themarginalpgrtion of an, n f n upper o e a tnwardly over an insole theouter face of which. iii-tee from any up t a u er o n oie ,tionextending heightwise of the last and in -the plying a binder about theupstanding portion of l! the upper for holding the upper in lastedposition and fastening the binder to the shoe, after the adhesive hasset removing the binder and trimming the upstanding portion of the uppersubstantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to theinsole, .providing a filler piece patterned to correspond to saidabutment, and applying said filler piece to the insoleinwardly of thetrimmed edge of the upper.

ARTHUR F. PYM.

